Camera...yeap in...lonely planet guide...yeap in...ok reckon I am all set to explore the old charming part of Hyderabad this morning..."Ring ring"...that must be Razzak.
Traffic as usual is chaotic…you definitely need a ‘license to kill’ to drive here…forget about lanes here, it’s about how close you can get to the car in front or next to you and how loud you can honk and how well you can avoid running over peddlers peddling their merchandises in the middle of the road.
As we get nearer to Charminar, the city starts to take a different look…rows and rows of wooden shop houses along the road selling all sorts of stuff, from homewares to shoes to jewellery…some of the shop houses are so dilapidated that I really do fear for the shopkeepers trading in them…
One arch…two arches…three…wait wait this is not an arch, it is the magnificent Charminar…standing tall at 180ft with four minarets soaring to a height of 48.7 mtrs with four giant arches on each side of the building that opens to a plaze, this is definitely the Arc de Triomphe of India!!! After paying Rs100 for my ticket (a whopping Rs95 more than Razzak…well, foreigners are charged differently here and expect lots of stares from locals…I have had my big share since I got off the car!!!) and climbing the spiraling narrow staircase of 54 steps, I finally reached the roof of Charminar for a panoramic view of the city…bustling narrow streets, bumper-to-bumper traffic, human traffic, colourful bazaars, the myriad peddlers,
houses with laundry hanging on the roof top, the majestic Mecca masjid and high court across the road and the camera starts snapping...

Getting off Charminar, I was totally swarmed by the local women and children…they were literally hanging on to me…gosh I thought I would never be able to get away and then Razzak came along and pulled me away.

Now it is off to Laad Bazaar – the paradise for bangles and attar (perfumes). So many shops and so colourful and so warm a welcome…well especially when you are a foreigner = ‘time to rip her off!’ The bangles are so pretty – silver, gold, copper, stones, shinny, plain…I tried on so many that at the end of it I had to stop as my skin was starting to get red and look as if it was going to peel off….even Razzak was laughing by then. It is really shocking how much you end up paying from the initial price they quote you…so haggle and haggle hard and bring a local with you. Totally now a proud owner of 3 sets of bling-bling bangles.

Next, it is to the Mecca Masjid across the road. Yes, it’s time to cross the road…no traffic lights..just step out and hope that the cars will stop for you (and you better hope hard!!). Finally, after almost gotten run down by the cars, I made it across to the mosque..phew! Shoes off as it is a holy ground. This is where the tombs of the Nizam rulers and his family reside and also where the locals come and pray every Fridays. The open plaza can accommodate up to 10000 worshippers and the building itself 3000 worshippers. This part of town is definitely a Muslim heaven. The north of this mosque faces Mecca, the floor is from Germany, and the ancient clock came all the way from France…the Nizam rulers definitely have a penchant for imported stuff. At the end of the visit, totally sensed that the tour guide wanted his tip cos he sure was leeching to me until I tipped him and the old man who insisted that I throw flowers on the holy tomb of Nizam which I did and which he then hit me with a broom…apparently it is a tradition and then viola, he blatantly ask me for a tip…mind you he wants it in paper and not silver shilling…talk about being bold!! And you must also tip the lady who has your shoes unless you want to walk bare footed for the rest of the day.
Exhausted, we decided to break for lunch (I have come to learn that lunch is from 1-4pm, breakie is at 9am and dinner is from 9-12 midnite) and today it is Hyderabad’s signature dish – biryani at the number one place in town – Hotel Shadab – the friendly next door neighbourhood family restaurant – after all the best way to discover the best food in town is to follow the locals. The place is packed out…I guess because I looked different (well when the place is not listed in the travel brochure or lonely planet guide you will definitely be a rarity here)…we got a table in 15 minutes (yes I took Razzak in). I reckon the waiter nearly cracked out laughing when I asked for medium spicy, he said it is either ‘no spicy’ or ‘very spicy’ but I was so adorable when I said it that he
finally said ‘OK’! The mutton biryani, served in a copper pot with red onions, lime, yogurt and red curry on the side was simply delicious…cooked to perfection…the mutton was so tender and we finished off the meal in local style, we ordered chai – it definitely tasted very different from the ones you get in Sydney…well, the secret…fresh cow’s milk – it was really good!!!
As I have embarked on the Nizam’s education path this morning, so decided to finish it off by visiting Chowmahalla palace – the residence of Nizam. What an opulent place…an European-like garden, intricately designed pillars, balconies and windows, marvelously decorated walls, marble Italian flooring, glass chandeliers, horse drawn carriages (yes the Nizam travel in style), rock solid timber cupboards (probably weigh a ton I think - apparently needed cos the Nizams have a wardrobe made from pure gold and silver…I am not joking the key to the cupboard is heavy and super huge...I am sure you can kill someone with it if you want to!!)…so many rooms…well I supposed when you have so many wives and so many children…you do need a lot of servants and bodyguards!!
Mmm…think I have done pretty well today...reckon I shouldn’t do too much in a day else I will run out of things to do….after all I do have a whopping 3 months here….mmm…wonder what’s for tomorrow…maybe
dosa for breakie and heh heh maybe another cup of chai ...gosh that red looking fruit ('anar') that I bought from the road stall – looks horribly tempting…now where’s the knife…